PTO Winches and FAQs
PTO winches are still manufactured today, but they are not marketed to the
recreational user. There are still commercial uses for PTO winches, but most
recreational users prefer electric or hydraulic winches. If you want a PTO
winch, you'll probably have to find one used. You'll need to find the
appropriate PTO adapter as well as the winch, several variations were available.
PTO Adapters
PTO Winches
Winch Essentials
Of all the different properties of a given winch, the line pull rating is the
most important. It is the maximum static load the winch can exert on the cable.
This will be achieved on the first wrap of the cable on the drum. For every
successive wrap of cable on the drum the winch's torque decreases 12%. This must
be taken into account when selecting a winch for your 4X4.
The line pull, line speed, and current draw (applicable only to an Electric
Winch; a Hydraulic winch does not have this problem) indicates when a weight of
X lbs is pulled, it will be pulled at Y ft/min using Z amps. These numbers vary
widely from winch to winch. They should be an important consideration in a winch
purchase. It is best to ask an experienced winch owner to determine what is best
for you.
Weight is an indicator of the construction of the winch. Winches must be very
STRONG. Too little weight means too little metal used in the construction. Too
much weight could mean that your front end will sag. A benefit of the Hydraulic
winch is that it does weigh less.
| Q. How do I select a winch for my truck? |
| A. The most important thing to consider when selecting a winch is
whether it is capable of pulling 1.5 times the gross vehicle weight (GVW) of
your vehicle (don't forget to take into account that 12% drop in pulling
power for every extra wrap of cable on the drum - a 9000lb winch has a line
pull of approx. 7000lbs on the third wrap). GVW is the real world weight of
your vehicle, i.e. fully loaded. So fill up your gas tank, load up all those
off-road goodies, tools, hi-lift jacks, people and go get your vehicle
weighed. |
| Q. What do the different winch gear systems mean and what difference
will they make when I'm operating them? |
| A. There are three common gearing systems, worm gear, spur gear
and planetary gear. They all do the same job, gear down the high speed motor
to a low speed high torque winch drum. The gear reduction ratio is by how
much the motor's output revolutions are reduced for the spindle. The greater
the reduction, the more revolutions the motor has to turn for one spindle
revolution and the less the motor has to work for that revolution. The
difference in the gearing systems is mainly in their transfer efficiency.
The worm gear has a transfer effiency of 35-40%. This causes the winch to
be self-braking even under heavy loads, but this means the unit will need a
clutch mechanism for free spooling. Worm gears offer the most reduction,
very high reliability, built-in braking mechnism, and generally a slower
winching speed.
The spur and planetary gear systems have efficiencies of 75% and 65%
respectively. This means they have a tendency to free spool when loaded,
therefore a braking mechanism is needed. Planatary gears are the most common
and provide both strength and smooth operation with good resistance to
torque loads. |
| Q. I've noticed while looking through the manufacturer's catalogs
that there are different types of electric motors. What is the difference
between series wound motors and permanent magnet motors? Is one better than
the other? |
| A. An electric motor basically has two major parts, the stator
and the rotor (or armature). It is the job of the stator to produce a
magnetic field which will cause the rotor to rotate when an electric current
flows through it.
In a permanent magnet motor, the stator uses permanent magnets. This
means the current drain on the battery is lower than series wound motors
(which uses field coils in the stator). Permanent magnet motors are good for
light and medium duty winches, but winching time and load has to be
carefully monitored as they tend to overheat. Series wound motors are used
in heavier duty winches, but tend to cost more. |
| Q. Will my electrical system cope with the extra load of an
electrical winch? |
| A. For most pulls, yes. There a lot of people out there with one
battery, stock alternator, and a winch. Keep in mind though that running a
winch is the equivalent to moving your truck on the starter motor, there is
a tremendous draw. Most electric winches draw around 400 amps at full load
which is far more than even a high output alternator will produce. Stock
alternators typically produce 40-90 amps at peak output and the battery will
keep up for only so long. Because of this, many people install high output
alternators and dual battery systems to support an electric winch.
When shopping for a high output alternators, remember to consider
alternator output at idle, these figures can differ wildly, especially on
older models. Regardless of what alternator you have, it is a good idea to
keep up the RPMs while you are winching if possible. Most alternators have
peak outputs near cruising RPMS. Also, keep you truck running after winching
to give your battery time to recover.
Upgrading the battery or going to a dual battery system is also a good
idea. The more cold cranking amps your battery (or batteries) produces, the
longer you can pull without your engine running. An electronic battery
management system is also a good idea to issolate the batteries.
After you have got power to the winch you will need to get it back to the
battery. Ensure your grounding system is capable and all connections are
clean, this is where most systems waste power. The best grounding systems
will use large diameter cables (such as welding cables), the battery
negative post connects to the engine block, the alternator ground connects
to the engine (usually through its case) and then the frame is connected to
the engine using a grounding strap. The best bet is to connect the a ground
directly from the winch to the battery. |
| Q. I want to be able to winch from either the front or the back of my
truck, are the receiver mounted winches any good? |
| A. Receiver mounted winches are very useful, but remember their
static pull load is limited by the receiver they fit into. For a class III
hitch that is 5000lbs. Because of this, receiver mounted winches are not
really suitable for full sized trucks. |
| Q. When I buy my winch, what comes with it, and what else do I need
to start using it? |
| A. Most winches come with nothing, but some places do a deal
which includes the remote cable control and fairlead hawser. You will also
need the mounting kit for your vehicle. I strongly recommend you buy the
winch manufacturers kit. It has been designed for that winch and vehicle
with all safety aspects considered. Home made winch mounts are disasters
looking for a place to happen.
Your winch will now work, but it is limited to straight line pulls
between two vehicles. The addition of the following items will greatly
increase your winch's usefulness - Tree saver straps (never wrap a cable
directly round a tree, you will kill the tree and kink your cable), a couple
of clevis pins, snatch blocks, a choke chain and of course thick leather
gloves.
Attach tow hooks to the frame on all four corners of your vehicle. |
| Q. What safety equipment will I need? |
| A. You just need your leather gloves and common sense. Never
handle the cable with bare hands, a frayed cable can cut skin to the bone.
The most common winch accident is getting your fingers caught in the cable
as the last of it winds onto the drum. Always use the remote control cable
when winching, and keep every one out of range of the cable . |
| Q. What other safety considerations are there? |
| A. Be aware that a broken winch cable can have enough force in
its whiplash to cut through a truck's roof and windshield. Imagine what
would happen if the cable met a person. A cable that hits a small tree will
tear the tree down. A cable that hits a large tree can wrap tightly around a
tree so a person behind the tree is not necessarily safe. Solid objects such
as hooks and snatch blocks will fly through anything, including a truck's
hood, if a cable breaks. People should stand well out of range of the cable
and never in line with the cable. Furthermore, if a cable breaks, the truck
being winched may roll downhill, so never stand downhill of any vehicle
being winched. |
| Q. Is it common to break a winch cable? Should I carry a spare?
|
| A. No to both questions. A properly maintained cable is very
reliable (see question about maintenance) and carrying a spare will only
increase the risk of damaging it. Winch cable is aircraft grade cable and
has a breaking strain of 32,000lbs - much higher than the capacity of the
winch.
It is much more common for for snatch blocks and anchor points to break
because they were poorly rigged up. It is a good idea to drape a heavy cloth
jacket over the cable to limit the whiplash if something snaps. If someone
has to steer the vehicle being winched, then raise the hood for extra
protection. Ensure all anchor points are firm. |
| Q. Is my winch maintenance free? |
| A. Although many people seem to think the answer to this one is
yes, the answer is really no! I have met a number of people in the mountains
stuck, with a winch that won't work. A little care and preventative
maintenance would have ensured its reliability.
Your winch should be maintained on a regular basis. Lubricate all
required points, inspect all mounts, pulleys, straps and clevis pins, check
they are not damaged, or showing signs of fatigue, and are free of moisture.
Inspect your remote control lead and electrical system for damage and
chaffed insulation. Make sure all terminals are corrosion free and tight.
After each trip unspool the cable. Check for kinks and frayed strands
(damaged cables should be replaced). Lubricate cable with a chain and cable
lubricant (normal grease will collect dirt) and wind back onto drum. |
| Q. What does using a snatch block achieve? |
| A. Basically it doubles your available pulling power (in fact
it's an increase of 85% after safety considerations). It will also allow you
to perform pulls at an angle to your truck. People are rarely considerate
enough to get stuck straight in front of you. |
| Q. When I double up the winch line using the snatch block, where
should I attach the return line. |
| A. If the snatch block is attached to another vehicle, which you
are trying to free, then the return line should be connected to a third
vehicle or tree, to spread the load.
If the snatch block is anchored to a tree and you are trying to free
yourself, then the return line should be hooked onto your vehicle's frame.
DO NOT hook it back on to the winch mount as this will effectively double
the load on the mounting plate. |
| Q. What is the best way of anchoring my vehicle when I'm trying to
winch another vehicle out of trouble? |
| A. Anchor your vehicle to another vehicle or any other fixed
object using your tow strap, tree saver, choker chain etc. The one thing to
remember is attach the anchor strap to your vehicle at the same end as your
winch, otherwise you may stretch your vehicle's frame. Often, simply hitting
the brakes will be sufficient to hold your vehicle in place. |
Electric vs. Hydraulic vs. PTO
Just when everyone thought the electric vs. PTO winch war was over, along
comes the hydraulic winch. There are still pockets of resistence, but generally,
electric winches have won out over the PTO winch. Enter the hydraulic winches
and another set of advantages and disadvantages.
The PTO (Power Take Off) winch is driven by a small drive shaft that is
driven by a PTO adapter that bolts to the transmission or transfer case. Only
certain transmissions and transfer cases have PTO ports (e.g. T-18, SM-465, Dana
18, ...). Most electric and hydraulic winches have only one speed, but with a
transfer case PTO port, shifting gears can be used to change line speed, torque,
and direction. Transmission PTO ports drive off the counter shaft, so they work
in one direction and have one speed that can be varied by engine RPM. Since
engine power drives the PTO winch, your engine must be working to operate a PTO
winch. This is probably the biggest disadvantage of the PTO winch since your
engine isn't likely to be running for long when your truck is upside down or
under water in a raging river. Not long enough to run out the cable anyway.
The electric winch does not require the engine to be running to work, which
is it's biggest advantage. The big argument against the electric winch in the
past was it would drain you battery and there was no way your alternator could
provide sufficient power for a long pull. The automotive industry has made great
improvements in alternator and battery technology over the past years which has
given the advantage to the electric winch. Batteries have more power and
alternators have higher outputs. An electric winch might even work if
your truck is upsidedown or under water.
Some of the advantages of the hydraulic winch are pulling power, pull
duration, and weight. The hydraulic winch runs off your existing power steering
pump. There is no need to upgrade alternator of battery for the winch, but you
may consider upgrading your power steering pump. If you don't have power
steering, convert now, regardless of what winch you get. A hydraulic winch
should be able to pull harder and longer than a electric winch with out over
heating. Hydraulic winches are also much lighter than electric winches, putting
less strain on your front axle and front springs.
Hydraulic winches suffer from the same disadvantage as the PTO winch, neither
works when the engine isn't running. The hydraulic winches I've seen have a real
slow line speed, this could an advantage under some circumstances, but generally
this is a disadvantage. There is a two speed model, but the high speed is not
for use under load. Another disadvantage I've heard from people with hydraulic
winches is the reduced ability to steer and winch at the same time.
Contributors
Some of the information on this page was originally prepared by Steve
Williams in June 1993 as part of the Off-Road Mailing list FAQ. Some text has
been modified and added by Terry Howe and others no doubt.
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